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After having no luck getting luxury department stores to sell his line in plus-sizes, Prabal Gurung launched a Lane Bryant collaboration (in sizes 14 to 28) this spring. “We’ve offered sizes up to 22 for private clients since 2009, but we don’t have an outlet that buys them,” he says. “Here we are complaining about a challenging retail landscape, and this is a multibillion-dollar industry that is absolutely underserved. There’s a solution right in front of us, and nobody is addressing it!” He’s not the only one suggesting that tough times for stores will lead to a wake-up call. Adds Cohen, “I think retailers will eventually figure out that they are looking for growth and this is the missing piece of the puzzle.” At JCPenney this theory worked. Two years ago the chain added plus-size sections—some as large as 2,500 square feet—in 185 of its stores. And, “in 2016, sales for the plus-size area were better than the rest of women’s apparel combined,” reports John Tighe, chief merchant of JCP. The retailer also makes an in-house clothing line called Boutique+ in sizes 18 to 26, which launched in 500 locations but is now available in all stores. “It’s the first time we’ve designed for the plus- size customer from start to finish,” he says.

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